Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

Landmannalaugar is where Iceland seems to have turned the color dial all the way up: rust-red ridges, yellow sulphur stains, black obsidian, steam, and soft-green moss sit side by side. I like that this trip pairs a two-hour guided hike with enough free time to choose another trail, take photos, or soak in the warm pool.

I also like the stop at Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears, a canyon threaded with clear streams and many small waterfalls. The trade-off is the long, bumpy ride on Highland gravel roads. The 4WD vehicle handles it, but this is not a restful coach day, and anyone prone to motion sickness should prepare.

Key points at a glance

• A true Highland outing: Reach Landmannalaugar by a 4WD minibus on roads ordinary cars cannot use.
• Obsidian underfoot: Walk across the Laugahraun lava field, formed in the 1477 eruption and known for its black, glassy volcanic rock.
• Colorful volcanic mountains: See rhyolite ridges colored by iron, sulphur, and other minerals around Brennisteinsalda.
• A hot spring finish: Bring a swimsuit and towel for a natural-pool soak after the hike.
• The Valley of Tears stop: Photograph clear waterfalls, spring-fed streams, ponds, and cliffs at Sigöldugljúfur.
• A full day away from Reykjavík: The tour lasts 11 hours and costs $210 per person, with pickup and drop-off included.

Why Landmannalaugar is worth the long road

Iceland’s Highlands are not a quick roadside attraction. They are broad, rough, volcanic country reached by F-roads, with long stretches of gravel, river country, and very little development. Landmannalaugar sits in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, an area famous for hot springs, lava fields, and brightly colored rhyolite mountains.

That remoteness is the point. You are not simply stepping off a bus at another waterfall. You are traveling into a place shaped by repeated eruptions, where the ground changes color and texture from one turn to the next.

The road trip takes time, but the scenery keeps changing. One section may feel like a black volcanic desert. Another opens toward mossy ground, distant peaks, or the slopes around Hekla. A stop at Hjálparfoss breaks up the first part of the drive, while the Valley of Tears gives you another scenic pause before returning to Reykjavík.

The vehicle matters here. This is a comfortable Super Jeep or 4WD minibus rather than a regular city coach, and that makes the route possible. It does not make every bump disappear. Several people found the road rough, and the rear seats can feel cramped or especially noisy on such a long day. I would avoid sitting at the very back if you have a choice.

Hjálparfoss and the meaning of help

Hjálparfoss is a two-tiered waterfall that drops into a broad pool framed by unusual basalt formations. It is a scenic first stop, but it also gives you a small piece of Icelandic travel history.

The area is called Hjálp, meaning help, because people crossing the harsh Sprengisandur route needed grass for their horses after crossing the barren Highlands. Reaching this greener area was a welcome change after a difficult journey.

You will have time to walk, take photos, and look closely at the rock around the falls. Do not expect a long hike here. It is a short sightseeing stop that adds geological and cultural context before the main visit to Landmannalaugar.

Entering Landmannalaugar by 4WD

Landmannalaugar is the heart of the day. The tour allows more than three hours here, which is important because the area offers more than one way to spend your time.

You can join the guide for an approximately two-hour hike through the lava field toward Brennisteinsalda, known as the Sulphur Wave. You can also choose another marked route, stay near the huts, take photographs, or spend more time in the natural pool.

The guided walk is aimed at ordinary visitors rather than only serious hikers. One person who described being quite sedentary still found it manageable, and several people considered the route easy or beginner-friendly. That does not mean you can wear casual shoes and forget the weather. The ground is uneven, the wind can be strong, and rain can change the feel of the hike quickly.

The tour gives you freedom, but you must keep track of time. Landmannalaugar is the main reason to book this outing, and the schedule is designed to let you enjoy it without being rushed. You should listen carefully when the guide explains the meeting time and place.

Walking across Laugahraun’s black obsidian

The Laugahraun lava field formed during an eruption in 1477. Its rough black surface contains large areas of obsidian, a volcanic glass with smooth surfaces and sharp edges. The material is often compared with the fictional dragon glass from Game of Thrones, but the real attraction is its stark contrast with the colored mountains around it.

This is not a flat stroll through a garden. You will cross uneven volcanic ground, so sturdy hiking shoes are essential. The obsidian can look polished in places, while other sections are jagged and dark. Keep your attention on your footing instead of looking through the camera every second.

The hike toward Brennisteinsalda brings you near small hot springs, where steam can rise from the ground. Rhyolite gives the mountains their unusual colors. Iron and sulphur add red, orange, yellow, and other tones to the rock, while quartz and silica help form the rhyolite itself.

This is where a good guide adds real value. Guides including Eddi, Eddy, Tomasz, Sarah, and others have been praised for explaining the geology, local stories, and route. Sound quality has not always been perfect, though. One complaint concerned a noisy minibus and a headset that was hard to hear, so stay near the guide during explanations if possible.

The natural pool after the hike

The hot pool is one of the smartest parts of the schedule. After two hours on rough volcanic ground, you can change into your swimsuit and soak in naturally warm water near the huts.

Bring a swimsuit and towel. They are not optional details if you want the full day. Outdoor clothing and a daypack are also useful because Icelandic weather can shift from pleasant to wet and windy with little warning.

The pool is a natural bathing spot, not a polished spa. You should expect a simple outdoor setting and shared bathing rather than private facilities. The available time is generally enough for a proper soak, though some people wished they had longer in the water. Keep an eye on the departure time, especially if you split your visit between hiking and bathing.

You can also skip the pool and use the extra time for another walk. That flexibility is valuable if you have already visited geothermal baths elsewhere in Iceland or prefer scenery to swimming.

Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears

Sigöldugljúfur is one of the most memorable stops because it looks unlike the black lava fields at Landmannalaugar. The canyon contains several spring-fed streams, small ponds, clear waterfalls, colorful plant life, and sculpted cliffs.

The name Valley of Tears suits the place. Water spills through the canyon in many narrow ribbons, creating a layered view rather than one giant waterfall. The bright blue water and delicate falls make this an excellent photo stop, and several people considered it the most beautiful part of the day.

You should understand the timing here. Landmannalaugar receives the long visit, while Sigöldugljúfur is mainly a sightseeing and photography stop. That is a fair choice because the main walk and hot pool require time, but anyone hoping for a long canyon hike may find this section brief.

The stop also gives your eyes a break from the broad volcanic views. Iceland is at its best when you see these contrasts in one day: black lava, colored mountains, steaming ground, and a water-filled canyon.

The ride from Reykjavík: the real cost of the day

At $210 per person, this is not a cheap day trip. The price makes more sense when you consider what it includes: Reykjavík pickup and drop-off, a 4WD vehicle, a local English-speaking guide, the guided hike, the Valley of Tears stop, Wi-Fi, USB ports, and photo help.

Most important, you do not need to rent a 4WD or work out how to reach the Highlands yourself. The tour puts a difficult route, a guide, and several scenic stops into one day. For a visitor without an appropriate vehicle, that can be good value.

The drawback is time. The day lasts 11 hours, with roughly two hours of driving each way listed in the schedule, plus the longer Highland route and stops. It can be tiring. The minibus may be noisy, the roads are bumpy, and sitting in the back for hours is not ideal.

Bring food and drinks because they are not included. Buying lunch before pickup is sensible. There are toilet stops during the day, but you should still start prepared.

Pickup is offered from selected Reykjavík bus stops and hotels. Be ready at 7:30 AM, with the understanding that the minibus can take up to 30 minutes to arrive. Keep your phone working and connected to data roaming if needed. If the driver cannot find you and cannot reach you, you risk missing the tour.

Weather, clothing, and walking ability

The Highlands can feel exposed. You need hiking shoes, rain gear, gloves, a hat, and proper outdoor clothing even if Reykjavík looks mild when you leave. A camera is worth bringing, but protect it from rain and keep both hands free on uneven ground.

The walk is suitable for many beginners, but the tour is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users. You should be comfortable walking over rough lava and handling a long day in a vehicle.

Weather can affect the hike. One late-season outing had heavy rain and strong wind, making the walk less appealing, though the hot pool still offered a warm alternative. A sturdy driver and capable 4WD vehicle are especially important in those conditions.

The guides have also had to deal with ordinary Highland surprises, including a flat tire and animals blocking the road. Those moments can delay the schedule, but they are part of traveling through rural Iceland. The guide’s driving skill matters as much as the commentary.

The guide can shape the whole day

This experience depends heavily on the person behind the wheel. The best guides combine safe driving with clear explanations and a good sense of humor. Eddi has been praised for stories and jokes, while Tomasz has been singled out for safe driving, flexibility, and strong local knowledge. Sarah, Eddy, Bessi, James, and other guides have also received warm praise for their patience and enthusiasm.

The standard is not perfectly even. A few people felt they received too little explanation on the road or during the hike, and one person found the bus audio difficult to hear. That is worth knowing if you want a fully narrated geology tour from start to finish.

Still, the small-group format helps. You can ask questions, request a photo stop when the schedule allows, and choose how hard you want to walk. Some guides have adjusted the pace or suggested alternative routes, which is useful when weather or fitness levels differ within the group.

Who should book this day trip?

I would choose this trip if you want to see Landmannalaugar but do not have a 4WD, and you want more than a simple transport service. The hike, hot pool, Hjálparfoss, and Valley of Tears create a full day with plenty of visual variety.

It suits you especially well if you:

• Want a first taste of Iceland’s Highlands
• Enjoy easy to moderate walking over rough ground
• Like geology, volcanic scenery, and photography
• Prefer a small group to driving alone
• Have one full day available from Reykjavík
• Want the option to hike or relax at Landmannalaugar

I would think twice if you dislike bumpy roads, get motion sick easily, or want a quiet, comfortable ride with little time in a vehicle. You should also consider staying closer to the Highlands if your itinerary allows it. One person staying in Hella felt that starting there would have cut down the driving.

Should you book the Landmannalaugar and Valley of Tears tour?

Book it if Landmannalaugar is high on your Iceland list and you want the logistics handled. The black obsidian field, sulphur-colored rhyolite, natural pool, and Valley of Tears make this far more varied than a standard waterfall day.

The $210 price is reasonable for access to a remote area, a 4WD vehicle, a guide, and an 11-hour itinerary, though food and drinks are extra. Pack lunch, sit away from the back if you can, bring motion-sickness medicine if you need it, and treat the weather seriously.

Skip it only if a long, rough ride would spoil the day for you. For most active visitors with one open day in Reykjavík, this is a strong way to reach Iceland’s volcanic Highlands without renting a specialist vehicle.

FAQ

How long does the Landmannalaugar tour last?

The tour lasts 11 hours, including pickup and drop-off in Reykjavík.

How much does the tour cost?

The listed price is $210 per person.

Where does pickup take place?

Pickup is available from selected hotels and Reykjavík bus stops, including City Hall, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Miðbakki, Snorrabraut, Höfðatorg, and several other designated stops.

What time should I be ready for pickup?

You should be ready at 7:30 AM. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive, depending on the distance from the starting point.

Is transportation included?

Yes. Pickup and drop-off in Reykjavík are included, with transport in a 4WD minibus or Super Jeep.

How much time do I get at Landmannalaugar?

The tour stays for more than three hours, including an approximately two-hour guided hike and time for swimming or independent exploring.

Is the hike difficult?

The hike is described as suitable for beginners and generally manageable for a range of ability levels. It crosses uneven lava and volcanic ground, so hiking shoes and outdoor clothing are required.

Can I bathe in a hot spring?

Yes. You can use the natural hot pool at Landmannalaugar. Bring swimwear and a towel.

Is food included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so you should bring or buy lunch before the tour begins.

Is the tour suitable for children or wheelchair users?

The tour is not suitable for children under 10 years old or wheelchair users.